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How to get real Chinese food at a Chinese restaurant

Jacqueline Church, who lives next door to Chinatown, reacts to some white foodie's rant about how she allegedly only gets authentic food at a Chinese restaurant when she goes there with a Chinese acquaintance - and provides tips for trying things that might not be on the menu:

Don’t assume that Chinese restaurants are trying to dupe you or are interested in serving you bad food. In my experience, they are genuinely happy if someone is curious or adventurous about their cuisine and they’re proud to share it.

Don’t hold Chinese restaurants to a different standard than others. Do you call out Italian eateries for serving dishes from more than one region? Indian restaurants also often represent a variety of regions on their menus. I don’t mind so much if more than one region is represented but ask which is their specialty.

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...what about idiot trolls?

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...and just digs herself deeper. My take, to put it in less diplomatic terms than Church does in her post, is that the original ranter is trolling for attention because she has a cookbook coming out.

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Yeah, I was kind of lost when she basically said that every single one of the 700,000 Chinese tourists visiting California ONLY want to eat authentic Chinese food.

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I don't have much specific experience with Chinese tourists in California, but I've participated in a fair number of Chinese tours of China and other parts of Asia, and in general, my fellow tourists (predominantly from Guangdong) have very little interest in eating anything other than their own native Cantonese cuisine. Of course, some tourists want to try some other food, but saying "[Chinese tourists] do not want to eat much of anything but the food of their homeland" strikes me as pretty plausible generalization.

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The part about the idea that the MAJORITY of most Chinese restaurants' patrons are ethnic Chinese was baffling. Some restaurants, sure, but lets not pretend that Kowloon's clientele is majority ethnic Chinese.

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Just eat what you want. I eat pork fried rice , the lads that work in the kitchen eat white rice. I like mine better , maybe theirs is more authentic.

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not part of the Hipster handbook man...

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The original ranter seems to think there's some secret handshake for white people to get traditional Chinese food in the restaurants that actually offer it, which I think is BS (based on my own ease of getting it in Boston's Chinatown and elsewhere). She also asserts that if Chinese restaurateurs would only do a better job of promoting traditional cuisine, more people would try it.

I don't think that's the issue at all. Restaurateurs aren't in the business of evangelizing, but finding a need in the market and filling it. When more Americans demand traditional Chinese cuisines, restaurants will step up to address the demand. In the meantime, there are plenty of places in both Chinatown and the suburbs that offer both traditional cuisine and American-Chinese food, allowing customers to get what the like.

I try to do my part in introducing traditional Chinese cuisine to my friends and the people who read my food writing, but I remain firmly in favor of you liking what you like, even if that means you order pork fried rice and General Gau's chicken every time in a place that offers traditional Chinese cuisine I think is much more interesting.

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My expert advice is that if the rice is cooked right, then usually the rest of the stuff will be good. That is , of course , you are not eating re-heats, then all bets are off. One more thing ,Get to Kowloon in Saugus , for the ambiance of it !

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is the Peking Ravioli. If the dumplings are good, then I've found the rest of the fare to generally be good as well. If the dumplings are bad, I've found the rest of the food hasn't been much better.

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makes me hungry for General Gau's Chicken Pot Pie!!!

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Mandarin speaker here. Most Chinatown restaurants have menus that in English and Chinese (and sometimes Vietnamese). No matter what language you order in, the waiter or waitress is simply writing it down in Chinese (or sometimes using the menu number) and passing it off to the cook -- there are no secret notes that say "white guy", "Cantonese grandma" or "overseas Chinese person who can't speak Chinese". In the case of the dim sum places, the same carts are serving tourists and Chinatown families. In that sense the food that different people get is identical.

Are there exceptions? Sure. Sometimes there are hand-written signs in Chinese offering specials. Also, different restaurants have different dishes and different levels of authenticity, which usually relates to the customers they attract. Dragon Chef on Rte. 1 is more likely to have pu pu platters and crab rangoons, and may be baffled by requests for authentic dishes that aren't on the menu. I've also found that restaurants that specialize in a certain region's food (such as dim sum, from Guangdong/Hong Kong) can't do other regions (Sichuan or northern style dumplings) so well.

FWIW, some great Chinese restaurants exist in the suburbs. Sichuan Gourmet/老四川 (Framingham Rte. 9, and other locations) has real Sichuan dishes on the menu ... but has the crab rangoons on it too, for those who like that.

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Especially the part about Sichuan Gourmet! The authentic dishes on their menu are absolutely fantastic. My girlfriend, who is Shanghainese, says the place immediately across from Sichuan on Route 9 in Framingham (I think it is called Uncle Cheung's) is also a family favorite for Shanghainese food. I've never been there, so I cannot confirm, but they really love it.

Really though, the bottom line here is venturing out = good strategy for quality new eats.

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Only problem I see with this excellent restaurant is that sometimes the parking lot is absolutely full -- and there seems to be nowhere else one can park.

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Yes for Sichuan Gourmet! The one in Brookline on Beacon St by St Mary's T stop is awesome. Very authentic and spicy and they don't turn down the spice even though I'm white. I love it!

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I always figures that General Gau's chicken must be the biggest the universe ever saw. So many places have serve meat from that chicken. Or is it a chicken that is similar to the cow at the restaurant at the end of the universe? Does the chicken travel around the country offering parts of itself to AmChi restaurants? Assuming General Gau's chicked was hen just big are the eggs?

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My Chinese colleagues tell me that there was a General Gao but - SUPRISE! - he had no chickens and nothing to do with the dish. Also, the fortune cookie - SURPRISE AGAIN! - has absolutely zero basis in Chinese culture, other than perhaps the lucky numbers they print on the little paper inserts.

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Next you'll tell me that Arizona Iced Tea doesn't really come from Arizona!

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The late Professor James McCawley (University of Chicago Linguistic Department -- a genius and genuinely wonderful, if eccentric, human being) wrote a guide to deciphering the characters used on Chinese menus (back in the day when one got short-ish English menus, while the Chinese menu was vastly longer): http://www.amazon.com/The-Eaters-Guide-Chinese-Characters/dp/0226555925

It might still be useful now. ;~}

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That reminds me of George Carlin's joke about a hipsters chinese character tatoo really says beef with brocolli, not what the hipster thought was so enlightening...

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Usually when I go to Wang's in Somerville, we order the northern Chinese stuff (homemade dumplings and buns), while various neighborhood locals come in to pick up their wings and fried rice.

Maybe this post will inspire me to ask for a translation of the Chinese-only specials board.

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What I think I'm seeing here is an introvert/extrovert threshold that has to be reached to get the "good stuff".

I think the passive-aggressive original complainer basically sat down, ordered from the menu they were handed and then complained when the next time they went in, they were ordering a custom dish or from a seemingly "private" menu that only Chinese people know exists. Then they took to their blog/article to complain.

I've been in places where certain dim sum carts never came all the way to my corner of the restaurant, where certain menus weren't handed to me when I sat down, and where "the specials" (item from column A and item from column B, voila!) were recommended to me. I've also been in groups where when those menus or trolleys did make it to my table, half the table acted like they needed to dry heave ("Tripe? is that like licking the pig's ass! Gross!"). So, I can certainly understand how after the 500th attempt to give all of the options, the waiter/owner is willing to give up and just offer beef with brown sauce instead by default.

However, when the cart doesn't come my way, I ask the attendant, "What have you got?" When the answer is pig ear, I tell them to bring it over please. I've never had a restaurant refuse to serve me from the "other" menu. I've just had to ask for it. I've even asked for translation if it's only available in Chinese. But that's because I know that I like to try these things and I'm not afraid to make that known.

So, it's simple really. If you want to try items that you might think they would offer if they only knew you were interested, then ask. Let me know when you are actually refused the "good stuff", otherwise claiming you had no access to it just because it wasn't the default is simply whining.

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... and familiarity with the cuisine. If you know what you want and are in an appropriate regional cuisine restaurant, chances are you will be able to get it, menu or not, Chinese or not.

However, having people with you who speak the same dialect as the staff at the restaurant opens up possibilities that you might not otherwise know about - particularly when it comes to variations and specials written in Chinese.

We have a local Sichuan place called Chili Garden - it is pretty well known, actually. It is also walking distance from the middle schools, which have "early release" days once a month where the kids descend on Medford Square for lunch in masses. My elder son and a couple of friends started going there in sixth grade for their luncheon specials and some quiet dining (compared to the pizza and hot dog/ice cream place, which were mobbed). By the time he was in eighth grade, this group had grown to as many as 14 people, and included a couple of kids who spoke the same language and local dialect as the staff.

Once the local speakers joined, the quiet luncheon turned into a banquet. Not only would they send out lunch special plates groaning with food for hungry teens (I saw pictures - it was a lot more food than they typically served - or, as my son said at the time "good tips help"), the restaurant would also send out a couple of plates of new things to the table (gratis) to encourage them to try different things, mediated by the kids who were familiar with the dishes. I saw some pictures of this and was amazed - they were actively enlarging the horizons of these kids. Yes, they were pleased with getting a large lunch group at a slow time, but the staff seemed almost indulgent of them all the same - and willing to teach them something about the food itself.

So, yes, these places are willing to serve interesting food to non-Chinese people but only if they know you know what they are serving (and it helps to have an interpreter for the food in your group). Otherwise, why should they take that risk if they don't know that you are receptive?

BTW, Chili Garden is wonderful and we still get all our take out from there.

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For those of you whose curiosity is piqued by this thread, search the Chowhound Boston board for an old thread (probably still active) on regional Chinese dishes available in Boston. That board turned me on to a lot of great restaurants like Qingdao in Cambridge, Fuloon in Malden, Shangri-La in Belmont and the late, lamented Zoe's in Somerville.

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I appreciate the comments here and there are more on my site, including another rant by the original author who ignores most of the points I made. I'd welcome UH commenters and suggestions there to share with my readers and I'll link back here as well.

I also offer some tips for those interested in eating off menu or more adventurously.

Cheers, Adam!

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Or is that only on the secret white guy menu?

(My non-local friend and I were once ordering unadventurous comfort food from a more Chinese-American place and I asked her to order french fries and gravy. Took ten minutes to convince her it wasn't a joke and that the restaurant would and could fill the order. She was amazed when they didn't miss a step during ordering and even more amazed when we got a delicious pint of crispy fries smothered in thick brown gravy.)

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amazing french fries and gravy!

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To the uninitiated, don't knock it til you try it. Great comfort food with those fries cooked in aromatic oil and a tasty brown gravy. All in one pint if you order it takeout.

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Has to be the most fake, vile tasting, Chinese food you'll ever have.

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I'm sorry to be a hater, but this comment thread makes me miss my previous life in DC, bigtime. It's not so much that the quality of the Chinese food is better in DC. Though the DC suburbs have fantastic Asian food, Chinatown and Allston have Asian food that is considerably better than almost anything within DC city limits. It's just that the average quality of the discussion (and the average level of knowledge about food) is _so_ much higher there. I mean, rating a restaurant on its crab rangoons... really? Bostonians, you need to be more adventurous!

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The only other post to mention rangoons did so in a mildly desultory manner. You might have meant the comment about using peking ravs as a quality barometer, which was made by one person, and at this point has received...no thumbs up.

There's not a lot of comments here, probably because there are other stories taking people's attention right now and because this story is not about food per se, but about whether there's anything to one blogger's speculation that there's a racial aspect to being served the good stuff (consensus seems to be pretty clearly - NO).

I suggest that if you want to get an idea of how invested and adventrous Boston-area foodies are, you visit a site that specializes in that kind of discussion (eg Chowhound). Or even one of the threads here that is directly targeted towards food-talk.

p.s. China King (aka the *real* King Fung Garden) FTW!

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"contrast this with the dinner I was served there a few months back without a famous person beside me to impress the chef"

Ms. Phillips, surely your cookbook will do so well that you'll be a famous person too soon, and impress all the chefs.

Or maybe you'll be so completely right yet so compellingly unpleasant that they'll pull the shutters when they see you coming.

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