Boston Eats
National: One More Chance To Love Your Mother's
Seems like just yesterday the news dropped that Mother's Cookies was closing its Oakland, Calif. factory after a good, 92-year run. Well, it didn't take long for the hipster nostalgia to start. You can already buy a shirt from Cloth Moth commemorating the fallen giant of childhood treats:
The best part: FIRST 20 ORDERS receive one complimentary 10 oz. bag of soon-to-be-gone-forever Mother’s Original Circus Animal Cookies (One per customer)Unless you are, or were recently, a small child, you may not be totally tuned in to the gravity of what's happened with the Mother's closure. It's a big shame, though. Day care will never be the same.
Mother's cookies that last forever [Slashfood]
Goodbye, Mother's Cookies [Clothmoth]
On Hiatus
We're headed to New Hampshire for the weekend, so I'm sure I'll have something interesting to blog about next week.
Get Me To The Dok-Tor
But one of the our long standing favorites has stood the test of time - at least a few years anyway - and remains our Brookline go-to for a reason. Dok Bua Thai Kitchen is one of those restaurants where the menu is too large to really read. Two books - one for descriptions, one for only photos - begin your quest for the perfect meal. It really shouldn't be so hard. But you also know you'll love whatever you get. From the sticky rice to the spicy tofu, Dok Bua has had open doors for this long for a reason. Beautiful fish tanks greet you when you enter, and the efficient staff never falter, keeping your water glasses full, your eyes glazed over as food comes rushing from the kitchen. The thing we love best? This is one of the only places open for holidays. Tired of greasy Chinese takeout on Thanksgiving? If you're like us and often stay in town for days like the upcoming T-Day, take it from us - you can't find a more welcoming place on an offbeat day when our city shuts down. Everybody else may have, but Dok Bua won't.
Dok Bua Thai Kitchen [MenuPages]
[Photo: avlxyz/Flickr]
Across The Menuniverse: Fall Into Fall
The leaves are changing, the temperatures are dropping, and across the menuniverse, folks are feeling downright autumnal.
• Bostonians know that snow will be on the ground sooner rather than later. [MP: Boston]
• Political crushes: so hot for fall. [MP: Chicago]
• 'Tis the season for "Taste Of __" events. [MP: Philadelphia]
• 'Tis also the season for Esquire's Best New Restaurants. [MP: San Francisco]
• Leaving unintentionally hilarious user reviews, however, knows no season. [MP: South Florida]
Billy's Breakfast - South End
A Greek place at heart, Billy's serves fair priced steak tip dinners, Greek salads, falafels, gyros, and other Greek inspired entrees along with a slew of breakfast choices on the same level. I've heard that momentous eating occasions have been created by their pancakes, omelets, and falafels specifically. My living quarters are in close proximity to Billy's so it's place I'll drop in to grab a couple breakfast sandwiches while I'm doing laundry or other small errands. In this case, I juggled two standard bacon, egg, and cheese on a bagel sandwiches.
The sandwiches are certainly larger, more filling, and better tasting than your typical frozen sandwich a la Dunkin' Donuts or other chains. The cooks fry up the eggs to your liking (over-easy please! Drippy egg yolk is vital to my existence) and compact it with cheese and bacon on a buttered bagel. Sure, it's not the healthiest meal, but for a quick and filling breakfast for around $7 that's a great deal. Obviously, if you're in the mood for something crisp you should get one of their enormous Greek salads with a plethora of goodies in tow.
57 Berkeley St., Boston, MA 02116, 617 426 1822
The Leaning Tower of Pizza
While Harvard kids may love the convenience of Pinocchio's, there's more than one good place to get Italian thin-crust pizza or a heaping plate of baked ziti. The salads are loaded with feta for a measley $5, and the eggplant parm sub is one of the best we've found. It's also pretty hard to beat the lo-fi atmo and townie vibe. The staff is friendly with folks they know, polite with the rest of us. But we get it and know that the local team trophies lining the wall show that Armando's is more than a pizza joint - it's a community-centered establishment. Go in for a thin slice with veggies and be prepared to take it to go. Counter service only, and sorry, no delivery. For the best thin crust in town with just a hint of attitude, head over to this tiny corner of the 'Bridge and tell them we sent you.
Pinocchio's [MenuPages]
Pinocchio's [Official Site]
[Photo: stu_spivak/Flickr]
A Dish Gal weekend
FYI: Meat And Potatoes
• The CEO of a listeria-infested meatpacking plant is unsurprised. Charming. [Reuters]
• It's been a rather successful year for Idaho's potato growers, to the tune of eleven billion pounds of spuds. [Chicago Tribune]
• The Great Lakes are being threatened by bottled water consumption. All our water just tastes like what it's like to be from Maine. [Washington Post]
• All the new safety requirements are making it hard out there for a Chinese dairy farmer. [Boston Globe]
• Starring in today's tainted food drama: California lettuce! [LA Times]
Pumpkin-Swirl Brownies
Here's what you'll need:
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for pan
- 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped (I used semisweet since my grocery store didn't have bittersweet... I just cut back on the sugar measurement a little)
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (adds a nice kick!)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 3/4 cups sugar
- 4 large eggs
- 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
- 1 1/4 cups solid-pack pumpkin (which I assumed was canned pumpkin)
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts or other nuts (I chose not to use any since, sadly, I'm allergic!)
Melt remaining butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water until the mixture is nice and smooth.
Whisk together the flour, cayenne, salt, and baking powder.
I got to use my new Kitchen Aid mixer for the first time... 150% pure excitement!
Now beat together sugar, eggs, and vanilla until fluffy, about 3-5 minutes. (in a mixer with the paddle attachment... or you could do it by hand or with a hand mixer). Then beat in the flour mixture.
Action shots!
Now you're going to divide the batter in 1/2 into two medium bowls. Stir the melted chocolate mixture into one bowl:
And in the other bowl stir in pumpkin, oil, cinnamon, and nutmeg:
Pour half of the chocolate mixture into the lined baking dish and spread using the back of a spoon or rubber spatula. Then pour half of the pumpkin mixture. Repeat layering.
Take a butter knife and gently design swirls through the batter!
I baked them for 43 minutes and let them cool overnight for a tasty surprise in the morning.
These smell delicious... It's pretty lovely waking up in an apartment smelling like freshly baked pumpkin! And I'm not even going to lie... I had one for breakfast :)
I even packaged some up for my coworkers and my roommate's coworkers. Anything to help celebrate Friday!
Enjoy your weekend!
[Chels]
A day off??
National: Encased Meat Hijinks
It's been a weird past month for encased meats, huh? First there was the hot dog bomb scare in Philly, wherein the bomb squad was called in to deal with three suspicious-looking duct tape wrapped hot dogs. (Spoiler alert! They were just plain old hot dogs.)
Then, there was the incredibly bizarre story of a break-in in California, where the suspect rubbed spices into the face of one of his victims, and reportedly attacked the other with a sausage.
Most recently, the artist Banksy has set up an installation in New York city called "The Village Pet Store and Charcoal Grill." (Hmm, sounds an awful lot like our favorite store in Western Massachusetts, Dave's Soda and Pet City, which sells soda and pet supplies.) The exhibit has been getting a lot of buzz, but we first saw videos from it on Serious Eats. So how does this relate? Just watch the video, why don't you!
"In Videos: Banksy's Village Pet Store and Charcoal Grill Art" [SE: NY]
"Duct-Taped Hot Dogs Spark a Bomb Scare" [Washington Post]
"Man suspected of sausage and spice attack set free" [AP]
Mi Casa, Su Casa. Mi Convenience Store...
But Villa Mexico Cafe is different, and not just because it's located in a Beacon Hill gas station's convenience store. This yummy little cafe and catering service isn't as quick as some others, but their commitment to quality food is evident. Toasted burritos with oozy, melted cheese is their specialty, and they do it proud, every time. Quesadillas, burritos, tostadas, and tacos are all $6.50 or less and made to order. Mexican milkshakes - licuados - are a refreshing treat, even in the increasingly blustery weather. And yes, we know trekking into the Grampy's minimart for lunch seems odd, but how can you go wrong with the friendly "Hola, amigo!" as soon as you set foot near the counter? The owners are as friendly as they come and open every day but Sunday, 9am to 9pm, you can even grab dinner on the go! There isn't an seating unless the curb is your idea of a good time, but bundle up and take your goodies to the esplanade to enjoy. The ducks who snap up your tortilla remains will be happy you did.
Villa Mexico Cafe [MenuPages]
Villa Mexico [Official Site]
[Photo: jslander/Flickr]
Adventures in Smoking
It all started with a post by Canary Girl. She wrote about bacon mayonnaise: mayonnaise made with rendered bacon fat instead of the usual vegetable oil. I was beside myself with the genius of this idea. But as I thought about it, the logistics seemed somewhat challenging. Bacon grease solidifies at room temperature which would make it seemingly difficult to emulsify into mayo. The really beauty of the idea, my thought- process continued, is the smoky, salty fat. So if I made “smoked” oil, then I could make mayo without bacon – and have a recipe that my non-pork eating friends would like.
Given my history of setting fires in other people’s kitchen, smoking oil wasn’t one of my better ideas. This is what I did… I lit a charcoal fire (yes, that’s right, open flame) in the Weber grill on the patio. When the embers started to fade, I threw on soaked wood chips. I put the grate on, and on the side without the flame, I put on a pot of canola oil. Oh, and as long as I was smoking, I put a second pan with home grown chilies and more oil. Thank goodness I’m still here to tell the tale, because I could have created a massive fire. But I didn’t and I ended up with some smoky oil and chilies.
With the oil, I made mayonnaise. Unfortunately, it tasted like the bottom of an ashtray. It probably would have been better with equal parts regular oil and smoked oil. As I recounted my tale to my neighbors they mentioned yet another brilliant idea: popcorn in bacon fat! And so the culinary journey continued…….
I rendered bacon over low heat – wanting to release the fat without crisping the bacon.
When enough fat coated the bottom of the pan, I added the corn kernels. While the corn popped, the bacon continued to crisp. After 10 minutes, I had fluffy popcorn mixed with crispy bacon bits. A quick toss with salt… The bacon flavor was good, but very subtle – I had used three slices for 1 cup of popcorn. Next time, I will need to use more bacon.
Since I also had the smoked chili oil, I decided to pop corn in that. Now THAT was delicious. Surprisingly smoky and unexpectedly spicy, it was a great success for pre-dinner cocktail snacks. Thanks to Canary Girl for inspiring this journey!
National: Dawn Of The Monkey Wait-Staff
What a world we live in. It's a magic time where fiction becomes fact and fantasy intermingles with reality. This is the age of the monkey butler. Remember this exchange from the Simpsons (the Lord of the Flies episode in which the kids are stranded on an island)?
BART What's everyone's problem? I'm glad we're stranded! It'll be just like the Swiss Family Robinson, only with more cursing! We're gonna live like kings! Damn, hell, ass kings!As "Under the Sea" plays, a fantasy sequence is imagined with the kids living in a wonderful tree settlement. Martin takes a shower. Wendell uses a water slide. Sherri and Terri drive a bamboo and grass car. Ralph pigs out on food and a monkey butler brings Nelson a drink. Back to reality.
BART
And every night the monkey butlers will regale us with jungle stories.
NELSON
How many monkey butlers will there be?
BART
One at first. But he'll train others.We all laughed, didn't we? Monkey butlers! How preposterous! Only on the Simpsons...
But no more. Chow ran a story on the Grinder yesterday highlighting one of the most important developments in restaurant service and animal training, well, ever. Behold: The monkey waiter:
Look at how earnest the little guy is. How attentive. A-freaking-dorable. Honestly, we're going to be really disappointed in every human-staffed restaurant we eat at from now on.
Simian, Check Please! [The Grinder]
Pictured: The amazing monkey waiters that serve tables in a Japanese restaurant [Mail Online]
Places in Boston for College Foodies!
However, since I've entered the working world, I've discovered a lot of places that would have been great for "college me". Not too expensive, but worlds better than Vinny T's (EW!) or Roggie's, these places are hidden gems in a sea of overpriced and underwhelming.
My cousin, and Dish This reader, Liz, who was at our Antico Forno dinner, is only a freshman but seriously into food. She even has experience IN the kitchen at restaurants, already having a one-up on "college me". This post is dedicated to her.
1.) The Super 88 food court.
Replaces: Chinese take-out places, as the only option for super fast Asian cuisine
Since Liz is a BU student, I would definitely steer her towards the Super 88 food court. Why I didn't frequent this place more often when I lived in Allston and went to school, I'll never know. Maybe because most grocery store food courts are gross? This one is definitely the exception, with authentic Asian foods at great prices.
2.) Myers + Chang. *
Replaces: The Cheesecake Factory, as the "go-to" birthday restaurant
Okay, I know, another Asian place. But this restaurant makes this list because it combines everything a college foodie would be looking for: delicious food, creative menu, relatively cheap, and a really fun atmosphere! Plus, while there certainly are yummy cocktails, the restaurant is not centered around drinking, making it a perfect spot for a festive birthday dinner for the under 21 set. *PS Yes, their website is a MySpace page. Clearly they want to pull in the college demo! ;)
3.) Figs.
Replaces: Bertucci's (or similar Italian chain restaurant), as the "go-to" date spot
Instead of heading to your local pizza place on a date, spend a few more dollars for a cozy atmosphere and luscious flatbread pizzas, courtesy of Todd English, at this tiny Beacon Hill spot. T. Anthony's is certainly fine for late-night cravings, but for a more memorable dinner out, Figs is a great option, and SURE to impress.
4.) Flour Bakery.
Replaces: Au Bon Pain, as the "go-to" cafe & bakery
Here we go with the Joanne Chang worshipping again...but I just had to let college foodies in on this great South End/Fort Point Channel spot! Forget ABP or Panera Bread; for a sandwich that's approximately the same price, you could get a SERIOUS upgrade at Flour. Try the grilled roast chicken with brie, arugula, roasted red peppers & caramelized onions. A sure-fire crowd pleaser. And definitely save room for dessert-- sticky buns are the specialty, but I'm pretty sure any of the pastries there are top-notch.
5.) Kingston Station.
Replaces: Uno's, as the "go-to" pre-going out burger & fries place
For pre-Faneuil Hall Thursday nights, don't even think of heading to tourist traps in Faneuil Hall. Start out instead in Downtown Crossing, a quick hop, skip, and a walk away, at Kingston Station. You can carbo-load with a massive portion of fries covered in gruyere cheese, or try their famed burger. Girls can enjoy large salads with yummy dressings, like the hazelnut vinagrette. All in a great space, decorated like an old train station, and very lively, especially on weeknights.
Your post-party options? My old favorites from college, McDonald's and street carts with sausage and peppers, still work for me!! :) Apparently, some things you never grow too old for...
Don't Hold The Anchovies
We have a similar calm, relaxed vibe about us when we hit the South End pub of the same name. Anchovies is a friendly Italian-American spot that won't break your bank - even in a recession - and certainly won't leave you hungry for food, wine, or a smile. Portions are huge, both for pizzas and pasta bowls. We suggest a pint - lots on tap - or one of their classic martinis with the Italian Nachos, which is a concoction nothing short of culinary genius. The basil pesto salad dressing is a little like a street drug, so beware. And while the dim atmosphere is great, we especially love the laid back crowd here, one that doesn't try too hard and keeps it really down to earth. One of our favorite spots for a casual conversation with a fellow bar stool prophet. Get ready for a wait at the door, but with a kitchen open past midnight, how can you resist?
Anchovies [MenuPages]
[Photo: passamanerie/Flickr]
FYI: Check Yourself
• Tagging along with a couple Chicago health inspectors could put you off your food. Though the point is to do the opposite. [Chicago Tribune]
• From the "bout fricking time" file, China announces stricter controls and testing on its food supply. [NY Times]
• An Ohio death row inmate is too fat to execute. He blames prison food for the weight gain. [Akron Beacon Journal]
• A group of Boston-area restaurant owners are forming a buying co-op to negotiate better wholesale prices on ingredients. [Boston Herald]
Apple, Raspberry and Chocolate Clafoutis — Clafoutis chocolat, framboises et pommes
Apple, Raspberry and Chocolate Clafoutis
All I could think of was the word chocolate.
“I want to eat something chocolaty,” I told P. when he asked me what I wanted for dessert. We’d dined simply, enjoying mini leek and blue cheese quiches I had made in the morning, roasted squash and a tossed green salad.
In most cases, I could have been quite happy nibbling on a piece of dark chocolate, or two. That’s easy: I always keep a wide reserve of different kinds of dark chocolate for us. Since I had just brought more Michel Cluizel and Varlhona bars from France, our favorites, the idea sounded even more attractive. But then, I really felt like something else. Something a little custardy too. And fruity.
“And what if I made a chocolate clafoutis, with fruit?” I went on.
“What fruit?”
“Apples? With raspberries too.”
He was sold on the idea.
First, it would not take long to prepare them, and then, it would combine many of the components I love in a dessert: chocolate and fruit, a clafoutis-like texture and a dessert not too sweet.
The chocolate clafoutis were made quickly indeed, especially as I chose to prepare small portions, ideal if you are interested in only a small taste of dessert — really, do we sometimes feel this way?
The recipe was straightforward too, with not many ingredients and a lot of time required.
You need quality dark chocolate — I prefer to work with dark chocolate that has a minimum of 64% to 70 % cocoa — tasty apples like Heirloom varieties, the best by far, raspberries even if their season comes to an end, and basic ingredients which I am sure you always keep handy in the fridge or your pantry.
A waft of chocolate came through the air out of the kitchen.
“Are they ready?” P. asked, feeling as intoxicating by the smell as I was. He was sitting on the sofa, listening to new music streaming through our Squeezebox.
“I think so. But we need to wait, they are too hot!”
“Vraiment ? (really?)”
We looked at each other, and laughed.
“Five minutes, no more.”
The clafoutis were still quite warm to the touch when we ate them — the best way to enjoy them, really.
“Great idea that you had,” I told P, with my mouth full.
He did not speak back. His mouth was full too, and his eyes seemed to smile out of content.
Apple, Raspberry and Chocolate Clafoutis(for 6 small ramekins, or 4 standard ones)
You need:
- 1 large apple, peeled, cored and diced
- 1/3 cup raspberries
- 2 eggs
- 2 oz dark chocolate, 64 or 70 % cocoa
- 2 Tbsp butter
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 3 Tbsp crème fraiche (or heavy cream)
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 2.5 Tbsp cornstarch
- 1 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa
- 2 Tbsp blond cane sugar + 1 Tbsp to coat ramekins
- Confectioner’s sugar, to sprinkle
Steps:
- Preheat your oven at 400 F.
- Butter the ramekins.
- In a bowl, mix 1 Tbsp sugar with 1 Tbsp cocoa and coat the ramekins with this mixture; remove excess.
- Heat the milk with the cream; set aside.
- In a bowl, place the chocolate with 1 Tbsp butter, an melt over a pot of boiling water (the bowl should not touch the water); set aside.
- In another bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar until light, then add the vanilla extract.
- Mix in the cornstarch, then the milk and cream.
- Add the melted chocolate, and mix well.
- Pour this preparation into the ramekins and top with the diced fruit. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes.
- When you are ready to serve, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar. For me, the clafoutis is best eaten lukewarm.
This clafoutis is not sweet because I prefer to eat dark chocolate. If you like your desserts sweeter, simply increase the sugar quantity.
(Pour 6 petits ramequins, ou 4 de taille standard)
Ingrédients :
- 1 grosse pomme, pelée et coupée en dés
- 50 g de framboises
- 2 oeufs
- 60 g de chocolat noir, 64 or 70 % cocoa
- 25 g de beurre
- 125 ml de lait entier
- 3 càs de crème fraiche (ou de crème liquide)
- 1 càc d’extrait pur de vanille
- 25 g (2,5 càs) de maïzena
- 1 càs de cacao non sucré de qualité
- 2 càs (25 g) de sucre de canne blond + 1 càs pour les ramequins
- Sucre glace, pour saupoudrer
Etapes :
- Préchauffez le four à 200 C.
- Beurrez les ramequins.
- Dans un bol, mélangez 1 càs de sucre avec 1 càs de cacao. Saupoudrez les ramequins de ce mélange et enlevez l’excès.
- Dans une casserole, chauffez le lait avec la crème; mettez de côté.
- Dans un bol, mettez le chocolat avec 15 g de beurre et faites fondre au bain-marie; mettez de côté.
- Dans un autre bol, battez les oeufs avec le sucre jusqu’à blanchiment. Ajoutez l’extrait de vanille.
- Ajoutez ensuite la maïzena, puis le lait et la crème.
- Ajoutez le chocolat fondu et mélangez.
- Versez cette préparation dans les ramequins, puis garnissez de fruits. Faites cuire pendant 25 à 30 minutes.
- Au moment de servir, saupoudrez de sucre glace. Le clafoutis est meilleur, à mon avis, mangé tiède.
Ce clafoutis n’est pas très sucré car je préfère le chocolat noir. Si vous aimez les desserts plus sucrés, je conseille de rajouter du sucre.
I'm not dead...
I have several posts in the works and hope to get them up ASAP. Check back for an amazing roast chicken recipe, details of my evening at a press event at Bella Luna and The Milkyway Lounge in JP and some fabulous Fall happenings around the area.
In the meantime, check out Boston.com's special Fall section for ideas on where to go apple picking, details on all the local Fall food festivals and some great ideas for FREE festivities!
I'll be back VERY SOON!
National: Lebanon, Israel Battle Over Hummus
War is about to break out again in the Middle East. This time, it's not land or religion that they're arguing about — nope, it's a large-scale food fight. Over hummus. Fadi Abboud, president of the Lebanese Industrialists Association, said Tuesday his group was planning to raise a lawsuit to stop Israel from marketing hummus and other dishes as Israeli.
Hummus is a spread made from cooked and mashed chickpeas, usually blended with sesame paste, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and garlic.
Eaten in the Middle East for centuries, its exact origin is unknown, though it's generally seen as an Arab dish. The Lebanese claim it as their own and it's a central part of their cuisine — though Palestinians also claim to have invented it.
It has also become enormously popular in Israel, common in everyday meals and served in many Israeli restaurants. It has also become popular internationally.
"It is not enough they (Israelis) are stealing our land. They are also stealing our civilization and our cuisine," said Abboud.
Abboud said there have been numerous complaints by Lebanese businessmen that Israel was exporting and marketing Lebanese dishes as Israeli. Oh boy. This could get ugly. I've always thought of food as a tool to bring people together, but in this part of the world, that might be asking too much. The Lebanese are trying to do what the Greeks did in 2002, when an EU court gave them exclusive rights to the term "feta." But of course, the Middle Eastern equivalent to the EU court doesn't exist, so this likely won't get resolved anytime soon.
Now that you're craving the delightful chickpea-tahini-olive oil puree, check out Cafe Jaffa.
Hummus war looms between Lebanon, Israel [USA Today]
Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr

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