I admit it: When I first heard about Sophia's Grotto opening up, I thought "Just what Rozzie Square needs: Another Italian restaurant."

We went there tonight and I take back my grumpiness (although I still think Roslindale could really use an Indian restaurant). The food is good and the restaurant itself is cozy.

Sophia's Grotto is just off Birch Street, near the train station - you actually have to go into this small courtyard to get to it (part of developer Stavros Frantzis's overall plan of making an inviting destination out of what was once a collection of decaying brick buildings - in addition to Sophia's Grotto, the courtyard also serves the Birch Street Bistro, Village Sushi and Grill, the Solera wine shop and a boutique or two).

The restaurant actually has a pretty small footprint - but they've made the most of it, turning dining into an intimate affair amidst the exposed brick, yet not making you feel crowded in.

The fare is, in general, light Italian and Mediterranean. I got the gnocchi. It was great (also came late, due to some kitchen mixup, but the waitress and owner were both very apologetic and offered a free glass of wine to make up for the problem). The Napoli pizzeta was also good. Nobody at our table likes mussels, but judging by the number of mussels dishes coming out of the kitchen, they must be doing something right with them.